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Author Topic: 6/12/2015  (Read 55875 times)

Travellin Dave

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #210 on: June 12, 2015, 02:48:53 PM »


Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?

You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)

Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
You're right, there are pros and cons to every approach.  As with what you said about trucks, it's much the same for the popular smaller cars like Toyota's and Honda's....We helped my mother look last year, and with the deals you get on a new car, it ended up about 2-3K over a two year old low mileage equivalent.  I'll take my chances on the new with a vehicle line you are familiar with.
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Threebean

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #211 on: June 12, 2015, 02:51:06 PM »

Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?
You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)
Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
Years ago it was just standard knowledge that a Chevy 283, 327, Ford 289, 302, Plymounth 318 were good engines, but you don't hear that information much any more.  Again, let's use the Kia 2.0L engine.
That "standard knowledge" was mostly bullshit.  The Chevy 283 and 327, and every other small-block GM engine up to 1992, are fundamentally the same engine, the difference being the length of the rods, the diameter of the pistons, and the dimensions of the valves.  No matter how much "car guys" like to yack about the various displacements of the '60s, GM got it "right" when they got to the 350, and from 1970 to 1992, that was GM's small-block.  In 1992 they tweaked it, but even so it is still essentially the engine Ed Cole designed in 1952. 

Ditto for the Fords.  The 289 and 302 were the same engine, on up to 351 CID.  Ford Windsor.  The "Cleveland" series was supposed to replace the Windsor, but it didn't.  So, from 1962 until 1996, regardless of the various displacements, the engine is fundamentally the same.

Of course, the automakers didn't really want you to pay attention to that, nor do the supercilious hot-rod guys.  They want you to believe there's voodoo and they've got it.

Modern cars are the same way.  Ford sells two V8's - the 4.6L and the 5.4L.  Same block - the Ford Modular.  GM calls theirs "Generation IV" or "Vortec" or whatever other nonsensical names they want to apply, but it's the same fundamental engine.
Best engines I ever had were the rotary's in my RX-7s and RX-8.
I had an RX7 back in the day, wonderful car, great engine. Fun as hell to drive.
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Travellin Dave

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #212 on: June 12, 2015, 02:51:25 PM »

Oh, and while I was paying off the Visa card, here's the tv I've been watching for the past 2 years.  I put it on an off channel so you can see the bad pixels better.  The blue ones are the bad ones if you can see them.

That's not a bad picture... when is your wife due?
That's a lot of bad pixels.
My wife just gave me the green light on the Visa card (-0- Balance.)  So now I'm looking at tv too.  I'm still running into the same problem.  When they get low enough to buy, they discontinue them, and bring out a more expensive tv with some thing new on it.  Now it's the 4k thing.  I'm watching for a Father's Day or 4th of July Sale at Best Buy.
BD do what I have always done, that is after learning my lesson buying a top of the line HP45 calculator in 1974 for close to $400.00.  next years product will make this years product cheaper.  the sweet spot in in TV's right about now is the 1080P 40-42 inch screen.  smart or not so smart.  do you need 4k? ask yourself how many dvd or blue rays you currently own.  there is no 4k broadcast that I know of at the moment.   if you had purchased a 42 inch near state of the art HDTV(1080p) last year, or the year before, would you still be happy with it.  if the answer is yes, but it now for $200 less.  don't buy 720p, look at what you like in a store, and if it's on sale, take it home.  We have places that will do a 36 month no interest, deal (P.C. Richards, best buy), you use their store card and pay them every month 1/36th of the price, the interest accrues, but is not due unless you miss a payment.  they are like 27% interest. if you can make that payments great, if not they hit you with outrageous interest.  just an option an opinion. by the way replacement for that calulater did more and were $200 - $300 less within two years.
My first HP could add, subtract, multiply, divide and do square roots....think it was like $150 or so....
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Travellin Dave

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #213 on: June 12, 2015, 02:53:34 PM »

Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?
You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)
Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
Years ago it was just standard knowledge that a Chevy 283, 327, Ford 289, 302, Plymounth 318 were good engines, but you don't hear that information much any more.  Again, let's use the Kia 2.0L engine.
That "standard knowledge" was mostly bullshit.  The Chevy 283 and 327, and every other small-block GM engine up to 1992, are fundamentally the same engine, the difference being the length of the rods, the diameter of the pistons, and the dimensions of the valves.  No matter how much "car guys" like to yack about the various displacements of the '60s, GM got it "right" when they got to the 350, and from 1970 to 1992, that was GM's small-block.  In 1992 they tweaked it, but even so it is still essentially the engine Ed Cole designed in 1952. 

Ditto for the Fords.  The 289 and 302 were the same engine, on up to 351 CID.  Ford Windsor.  The "Cleveland" series was supposed to replace the Windsor, but it didn't.  So, from 1962 until 1996, regardless of the various displacements, the engine is fundamentally the same.

Of course, the automakers didn't really want you to pay attention to that, nor do the supercilious hot-rod guys.  They want you to believe there's voodoo and they've got it.

Modern cars are the same way.  Ford sells two V8's - the 4.6L and the 5.4L.  Same block - the Ford Modular.  GM calls theirs "Generation IV" or "Vortec" or whatever other nonsensical names they want to apply, but it's the same fundamental engine.
Best engines I ever had were the rotary's in my RX-7s and RX-8.
I had an RX7 back in the day, wonderful car, great engine. Fun as hell to drive.
I miss them...they've been rumoring to bring them back for years now, but nuthin'.  RX-8 was nice with back suicide doors, real back seats (sans legroom).  Car insurance listed it as a 4 door sedan....sweet!
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Bad Dad

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #214 on: June 12, 2015, 02:56:04 PM »

Oh, and while I was paying off the Visa card, here's the tv I've been watching for the past 2 years.  I put it on an off channel so you can see the bad pixels better.  The blue ones are the bad ones if you can see them.

That's not a bad picture... when is your wife due?
That's a lot of bad pixels.
My wife just gave me the green light on the Visa card (-0- Balance.)  So now I'm looking at tv too.  I'm still running into the same problem.  When they get low enough to buy, they discontinue them, and bring out a more expensive tv with some thing new on it.  Now it's the 4k thing.  I'm watching for a Father's Day or 4th of July Sale at Best Buy.
BD do what I have always done, that is after learning my lesson buying a top of the line HP45 calculator in 1974 for close to $400.00.  next years product will make this years product cheaper.  the sweet spot in in TV's right about now is the 1080P 40-42 inch screen.  smart or not so smart.  do you need 4k? ask yourself how many dvd or blue rays you currently own.  there is no 4k broadcast that I know of at the moment.   if you had purchased a 42 inch near state of the art HDTV(1080p) last year, or the year before, would you still be happy with it.  if the answer is yes, but it now for $200 less.  don't buy 720p, look at what you like in a store, and if it's on sale, take it home.  We have places that will do a 36 month no interest, deal (P.C. Richards, best buy), you use their store card and pay them every month 1/36th of the price, the interest accrues, but is not due unless you miss a payment.  they are like 27% interest. if you can make that payments great, if not they hit you with outrageous interest.  just an option an opinion. by the way replacement for that calulater did more and were $200 - $300 less within two years.
Thanks flip.....  I'm really wanting a 55" or 60" 1080p 120h.  Right now I'm between the sweet spot of 1080p and 4k.  I'm getting less and less of a 1080p selection available and I'm afraid before long the only selection will be the higher costing 4k. Oh well, there's always next years sweet spot.. :)
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Bad Dad

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #215 on: June 12, 2015, 03:00:09 PM »

If you're just looking at gas mileage,
Volkswagon Passat 30/44
Honda Accord Hybrid 50/45 (although I'm not big on hybrids for the cost/benefit)
Volkswagon Jetta 31/46
Honda Civic Hybrid 44/47
Toyota Prius 51/48
Tesla Model S 95/106

Other regular gas engines:
Toyota Corolla 30/42
Chevy Cruze 27/46
Mazda 3 28/40
Mazda 6 28/38
Ford Focus 26/36
Think the Tesla might be a touch out of his price range.
My problem is, I can't afford allot of the cars, and can't fit into some of the others.  $24,000 would be really pushing it in my budget.  I'm hoping to find a sale by the end of the year when dealers are trying to push cars in order to get the 2016 in.  Not that I'm going to do this, but here's what's on my mind.  A car MSRP is $24,000 and they have a sale marking it down $3,000 or $4,000.  Now at $20,000-$21,000 would work.  Better, a Kia Soul MSRP $21,300 and a sale of $3,000 end of year would be $18,300 would be perfect.  I can look at the Accords and Camerys at $23,000, but when you start putting options on them, it's nothing to run them up to $28,000 and up.  Yikes..!
With end of season incentives, you can get a Camry, Corolla or the Mazda's nicely equipped in that price range.
I don't think I can fit into a Corolla or Mazda 3 with out contorting myself.  The Camry is probably my best choice, but did you see that front honey comb grill...?  Can you imagine cleaning that after a night of driving in the summer with all the bugs out...
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Bad Dad

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #216 on: June 12, 2015, 03:04:57 PM »

Oh, and while I was paying off the Visa card, here's the tv I've been watching for the past 2 years.  I put it on an off channel so you can see the bad pixels better.  The blue ones are the bad ones if you can see them.

That's not a bad picture... when is your wife due?
That's a lot of bad pixels.
My wife just gave me the green light on the Visa card (-0- Balance.)  So now I'm looking at tv too.  I'm still running into the same problem.  When they get low enough to buy, they discontinue them, and bring out a more expensive tv with some thing new on it.  Now it's the 4k thing.  I'm watching for a Father's Day or 4th of July Sale at Best Buy.
Just ignore 4K as there are no transmissions and almost no movies available in it yet.  The industry had to introduce something as the 3D was pretty much a bust.  Just go with the smart TV.
I bet Piranha or Piranha DD would be great in 3D... :)
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razgueado

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #217 on: June 12, 2015, 03:06:15 PM »


Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?

You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)

Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
Years ago it was just standard knowledge that a Chevy 283, 327, Ford 289, 302, Plymounth 318 were good engines, but you don't hear that information much any more.  Again, let's use the Kia 2.0L engine.
That "standard knowledge" was mostly bullshit.  The Chevy 283 and 327, and every other small-block GM engine up to 1992, are fundamentally the same engine, the difference being the length of the rods, the diameter of the pistons, and the dimensions of the valves.  No matter how much "car guys" like to yack about the various displacements of the '60s, GM got it "right" when they got to the 350, and from 1970 to 1992, that was GM's small-block.  In 1992 they tweaked it, but even so it is still essentially the engine Ed Cole designed in 1952. 

Ditto for the Fords.  The 289 and 302 were the same engine, on up to 351 CID.  Ford Windsor.  The "Cleveland" series was supposed to replace the Windsor, but it didn't.  So, from 1962 until 1996, regardless of the various displacements, the engine is fundamentally the same.

Of course, the automakers didn't really want you to pay attention to that, nor do the supercilious hot-rod guys.  They want you to believe there's voodoo and they've got it.

Modern cars are the same way.  Ford sells two V8's - the 4.6L and the 5.4L.  Same block - the Ford Modular.  GM calls theirs "Generation IV" or "Vortec" or whatever other nonsensical names they want to apply, but it's the same fundamental engine.
Best engines I ever had were the rotary's in my RX-7s and RX-8.
Don't get me started. The problem with the Wankel engine is that it's too good. Smooth, powerful, durable, efficient, forgiving, quiet, simple...you see where this is going. How can you sell new cars every year, and warranties, and service, if the engines last so long and with so little trouble? What are ya, a Commie?

This space for rent.

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Bad Dad

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #218 on: June 12, 2015, 03:11:30 PM »


Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?

You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)

Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
Years ago it was just standard knowledge that a Chevy 283, 327, Ford 289, 302, Plymounth 318 were good engines, but you don't hear that information much any more.  Again, let's use the Kia 2.0L engine.
That "standard knowledge" was mostly bullshit.  The Chevy 283 and 327, and every other small-block GM engine up to 1992, are fundamentally the same engine, the difference being the length of the rods, the diameter of the pistons, and the dimensions of the valves.  No matter how much "car guys" like to yack about the various displacements of the '60s, GM got it "right" when they got to the 350, and from 1970 to 1992, that was GM's small-block.  In 1992 they tweaked it, but even so it is still essentially the engine Ed Cole designed in 1952. 

Ditto for the Fords.  The 289 and 302 were the same engine, on up to 351 CID.  Ford Windsor.  The "Cleveland" series was supposed to replace the Windsor, but it didn't.  So, from 1962 until 1996, regardless of the various displacements, the engine is fundamentally the same.

Of course, the automakers didn't really want you to pay attention to that, nor do the supercilious hot-rod guys.  They want you to believe there's voodoo and they've got it.

Modern cars are the same way.  Ford sells two V8's - the 4.6L and the 5.4L.  Same block - the Ford Modular.  GM calls theirs "Generation IV" or "Vortec" or whatever other nonsensical names they want to apply, but it's the same fundamental engine.
Best engines I ever had were the rotary's in my RX-7s and RX-8.
Don't get me started. The problem with the Wankel engine is that it's too good. Smooth, powerful, durable, efficient, forgiving, quiet, simple...you see where this is going. How can you sell new cars every year, and warranties, and service, if the engines last so long and with so little trouble? What are ya, a Commie?

This space for rent.
A Wankle...
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Bad Dad

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #219 on: June 12, 2015, 03:12:02 PM »

I have to get off now.  Time to fix supper... bbl (maybe)
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Threebean

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #220 on: June 12, 2015, 03:13:18 PM »


Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?

You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)

Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
Years ago it was just standard knowledge that a Chevy 283, 327, Ford 289, 302, Plymounth 318 were good engines, but you don't hear that information much any more.  Again, let's use the Kia 2.0L engine.
That "standard knowledge" was mostly bullshit.  The Chevy 283 and 327, and every other small-block GM engine up to 1992, are fundamentally the same engine, the difference being the length of the rods, the diameter of the pistons, and the dimensions of the valves.  No matter how much "car guys" like to yack about the various displacements of the '60s, GM got it "right" when they got to the 350, and from 1970 to 1992, that was GM's small-block.  In 1992 they tweaked it, but even so it is still essentially the engine Ed Cole designed in 1952. 

Ditto for the Fords.  The 289 and 302 were the same engine, on up to 351 CID.  Ford Windsor.  The "Cleveland" series was supposed to replace the Windsor, but it didn't.  So, from 1962 until 1996, regardless of the various displacements, the engine is fundamentally the same.

Of course, the automakers didn't really want you to pay attention to that, nor do the supercilious hot-rod guys.  They want you to believe there's voodoo and they've got it.

Modern cars are the same way.  Ford sells two V8's - the 4.6L and the 5.4L.  Same block - the Ford Modular.  GM calls theirs "Generation IV" or "Vortec" or whatever other nonsensical names they want to apply, but it's the same fundamental engine.
Best engines I ever had were the rotary's in my RX-7s and RX-8.
Don't get me started. The problem with the Wankel engine is that it's too good. Smooth, powerful, durable, efficient, forgiving, quiet, simple...you see where this is going. How can you sell new cars every year, and warranties, and service, if the engines last so long and with so little trouble? What are ya, a Commie?

This space for rent.
Here's some interesting reading on the history of the Wankel Rotary.  http://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/stories/rotary/newfrontier/
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Travellin Dave

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #221 on: June 12, 2015, 03:18:42 PM »

If you're just looking at gas mileage,
Volkswagon Passat 30/44
Honda Accord Hybrid 50/45 (although I'm not big on hybrids for the cost/benefit)
Volkswagon Jetta 31/46
Honda Civic Hybrid 44/47
Toyota Prius 51/48
Tesla Model S 95/106

Other regular gas engines:
Toyota Corolla 30/42
Chevy Cruze 27/46
Mazda 3 28/40
Mazda 6 28/38
Ford Focus 26/36
Think the Tesla might be a touch out of his price range.
My problem is, I can't afford allot of the cars, and can't fit into some of the others.  $24,000 would be really pushing it in my budget.  I'm hoping to find a sale by the end of the year when dealers are trying to push cars in order to get the 2016 in.  Not that I'm going to do this, but here's what's on my mind.  A car MSRP is $24,000 and they have a sale marking it down $3,000 or $4,000.  Now at $20,000-$21,000 would work.  Better, a Kia Soul MSRP $21,300 and a sale of $3,000 end of year would be $18,300 would be perfect.  I can look at the Accords and Camerys at $23,000, but when you start putting options on them, it's nothing to run them up to $28,000 and up.  Yikes..!
With end of season incentives, you can get a Camry, Corolla or the Mazda's nicely equipped in that price range.
I don't think I can fit into a Corolla or Mazda 3 with out contorting myself.  The Camry is probably my best choice, but did you see that front honey comb grill...?  Can you imagine cleaning that after a night of driving in the summer with all the bugs out...
Check them out before dismissing them.  Surprising room in some of those cars.
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razgueado

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #222 on: June 12, 2015, 03:27:57 PM »


Have you considered looking at vehicles a couple years old with low mileage and still under some warranty?

You would probably drop the costs considerably. Most new cars drop in in value significantly after you drive them off the lot, imho, fwiw, no offense, etc, etc. Although, this will inevitably open up a bigger can of worms. ha!
I have also been looking at used cars too (on the internet.)  Here's what I've been running into.  Used trucks are almost out of the question.  They are very expensive and also have allot of mileage.  For used cars, it's common to find a 2013 - 2014 with 30,000k to 60,000k and let's say costing $14,000 and up.  My wife wants an automatic and air.  Basic new Soul with a 10 year 100,000 warrant cost $17,000.  So, do I buy a nice used Honda Accord, or pay $3,000 more for a basic new car that hopefully the dealer will repair for the next 10 years.  A car with 30k has a risk of some thing being wrong with it, may need new tires, and brakes. Now if I had an old man that lived next to me selling a 3 year old Buick with 12k miles for $13,000 - $14,000 I'd jump on it.  It's just very hard for me to decide.  Also, I drove 1,000 miles last year on my truck, and my wife drove about 1,000 on her car.  A used car with 36k miles represents 18 years of ownership to us.  Kinda weird, huh.. :)

Trucks are expensive everywhere. I see old beaters around with $5000 in the window all the time. If it were a car, they'd be lucky to get $500. A good resource for used vehicles is AutoTrader.com. You can filter by many things and get a sense of what's available for a certain price... dealer and private. The new car rebates do make you think, but personally, I think the better deal is in the car a couple years old. Plus, you have more feedback on an older car. The same car made in different years can have different pros and cons.
Years ago it was just standard knowledge that a Chevy 283, 327, Ford 289, 302, Plymounth 318 were good engines, but you don't hear that information much any more.  Again, let's use the Kia 2.0L engine.
That "standard knowledge" was mostly bullshit.  The Chevy 283 and 327, and every other small-block GM engine up to 1992, are fundamentally the same engine, the difference being the length of the rods, the diameter of the pistons, and the dimensions of the valves.  No matter how much "car guys" like to yack about the various displacements of the '60s, GM got it "right" when they got to the 350, and from 1970 to 1992, that was GM's small-block.  In 1992 they tweaked it, but even so it is still essentially the engine Ed Cole designed in 1952. 

Ditto for the Fords.  The 289 and 302 were the same engine, on up to 351 CID.  Ford Windsor.  The "Cleveland" series was supposed to replace the Windsor, but it didn't.  So, from 1962 until 1996, regardless of the various displacements, the engine is fundamentally the same.

Of course, the automakers didn't really want you to pay attention to that, nor do the supercilious hot-rod guys.  They want you to believe there's voodoo and they've got it.

Modern cars are the same way.  Ford sells two V8's - the 4.6L and the 5.4L.  Same block - the Ford Modular.  GM calls theirs "Generation IV" or "Vortec" or whatever other nonsensical names they want to apply, but it's the same fundamental engine.
Best engines I ever had were the rotary's in my RX-7s and RX-8.
Don't get me started. The problem with the Wankel engine is that it's too good. Smooth, powerful, durable, efficient, forgiving, quiet, simple...you see where this is going. How can you sell new cars every year, and warranties, and service, if the engines last so long and with so little trouble? What are ya, a Commie?

This space for rent.
Here's some interesting reading on the history of the Wankel Rotary.  http://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/stories/rotary/newfrontier/
Yeah. The one "major" downside of Wankels is they give up some efficiency in acceleration and deceleration. That's hard to sell to politicians and bureaucrats myopically basing regulations on "miles-per-gallon." They don't have time to be bothered with overall environmental impact and TCO. They want sound bites.

In hybrid vehicles, a constants velocity Wankel serving as a generator absolutely rules. But again, hybrids aren't "hip" anymore and everyone wants to talk about total-electrics.

It's a stupid world.

I once helped some friends put a 302 Ford into an e-type Jag body. We put a programmable EFI system in. Made the E a great car. Fast, reliable, and 20 mpg or better. I tried to convince them to use a rotary. That would have been a truly great combination. But they were V8 guys. They didn't even want the EFI, because they didn't understand it.

This space for rent.

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South Carolina Redfish

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #223 on: June 12, 2015, 03:33:16 PM »

Oh, and while I was paying off the Visa card, here's the tv I've been watching for the past 2 years.  I put it on an off channel so you can see the bad pixels better.  The blue ones are the bad ones if you can see them.

That's not a bad picture... when is your wife due?
That's a lot of bad pixels.
My wife just gave me the green light on the Visa card (-0- Balance.)  So now I'm looking at tv too.  I'm still running into the same problem.  When they get low enough to buy, they discontinue them, and bring out a more expensive tv with some thing new on it.  Now it's the 4k thing.  I'm watching for a Father's Day or 4th of July Sale at Best Buy.
BD do what I have always done, that is after learning my lesson buying a top of the line HP45 calculator in 1974 for close to $400.00.  next years product will make this years product cheaper.  the sweet spot in in TV's right about now is the 1080P 40-42 inch screen.  smart or not so smart.  do you need 4k? ask yourself how many dvd or blue rays you currently own.  there is no 4k broadcast that I know of at the moment.   if you had purchased a 42 inch near state of the art HDTV(1080p) last year, or the year before, would you still be happy with it.  if the answer is yes, but it now for $200 less.  don't buy 720p, look at what you like in a store, and if it's on sale, take it home.  We have places that will do a 36 month no interest, deal (P.C. Richards, best buy), you use their store card and pay them every month 1/36th of the price, the interest accrues, but is not due unless you miss a payment.  they are like 27% interest. if you can make that payments great, if not they hit you with outrageous interest.  just an option an opinion. by the way replacement for that calulater did more and were $200 - $300 less within two years.
My first HP could add, subtract, multiply, divide and do square roots....think it was like $150 or so....
Had one of those HP's to do sq root myself in about 1973-74 and seems like it was $199 or so.
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South Carolina Redfish

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Re: 6/12/2015
« Reply #224 on: June 12, 2015, 03:34:25 PM »

I have to get off now.  Time to fix supper... bbl (maybe)
I could stand to "get off" myself.
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